I chose to use foam as the baseboard of my layout. I started experimenting with this in 2008 (Photo). This actual track on the test rig was only pinned in place as it was never permanent.
- Foam base is great to lay my Peco code 75 HO flextrack. I can easily pin it in place using ordinary dressmaking pins. But you can’t nail it down.
- Instead, I use an adhesive, LATEX CEMENT and I buy it from carpet suppliers or carpet layers. I take a 1 or 2 litre plastic container and get it filled for say $10 or so.
- It needs to be thinned with water to a consistency of milk. I originally thought it would need to be thicker, but the thinner it is the better it penetrated under sleepers etc.
- What happens if you change your mind and want to move something? It is actually reasonably easy just by dissolving the dried latex – see the last photo.

The company describes the product as:
“A box of 100 feet (31metres) of high quality, OO/HO Scale trackbed (3mm thick / scale 9~10” approx high).
Made from very long life EVA, closed cell foam trackbed with precut ballast shoulders and a pre-scored track centreline underneath to allow it to be easily split for laying along track centre-lines if wanted.
Based on tests and feedback each piece is 605mm / 2 feet long for easy handling. Cuts perfectly with a snap off knife.”



Curves were laid out with Masonite (hardboard) templates. In this case 1m radius.
Note the use of plywood alignment pieces to keep the track joins in line.

To do this I made a little mobile jig from an old loco pony truck with a ply guide screwed up from the bottom so it just cleared the rails.
- This foam roadbed is lightly cut down the centre to make it easier to lay curves.
- The other advantage of gluing the track to foam is that it provides an improved noise barrier.
- That is lessened of course when the track is ballasted but I am experimenting with very dilute latex as a ballast adhesive.


The photo above shows the container of diluted latex glued to a block of wood to help prevent spills. The photo actually shows a point being glued to the underlay and weights ARE needed for this process.

This aligns the track but allows it to be lifted to coat the underlay lightly with latex cement.

I used a chisel shaped brush about 10mm wide and applied it sparingly down both sides.


The long brown strip is paxolin – about 3mm thick and cut to fit precisely between the rails. It serves to align long straight section and can be left in place until the glue sets. It can be made from any similar rigid maerial.

They guarantee alignment of track especially with crossovers.


WHEN THERE IS A DISASTER:

Yes, yes … I know if I am flooded out, the trackwork may be in trouble. But the bloke in the house across the road will really be in strife. The peak of his roof is lower than my floor!