Joansa Construction - Page 8
Rick Fletcher - Central Coast NSW Australia
Click the Pic to view Full Size
1.These are the so-called "flap sanders" both for an angle grinder and drill (mentioned on page 7).
2. These are the parts for the quarter knee - rather than just using a ply doubler, I used a spacer piece of hoop pine which extends undere the inwhale for extra strength.
3/4. Rebating the top layer of ply is best done with a series of saw cuts to the marked depth (4mm). Then chisel out the intermediate sections.
5.The fancy curved end is useful work for a cutter held in the Dremel.
6. An armfull of clamps epoxied the quarter knees in place.

7. For some strange reason I have decided to add a small foredeck to my Joansa. Should be good for trips out into the Tasman ocean (!). This was my method for establishing curves and heights.

8. The apex of the curved deck beam forming the rear of the foredeck was established by sighting from the stem to the transom. I then guessed a "fair curve".
9. As the ply deck needs to bend in a straight line ie. a conical shape in this case, I pivoted a batten at the bow and moved it through even distances (chalked on the aft deck beam)
10. At each chalked positon, I measured the offset from the bottom of a batten set at the position of the intermediated deck beam ...
11. These offsets were then transferred to a ply pattern which was used to make the intermediate deck beam.
12. The two deck beams in position.
13. I doubled the tickness of the deckbeams to a final thickness of 12mm.
14. because I am an idiot and didn't leave enough 4mm ply to cover the foredeck, I had to come up with another scheme ...
15... using a bit of left over oar laminate to make a central rib. This is rebated each side to take two half decks.
16. This central rib needs housing into the deck beams and the stem.
17. How much simpler it would have been if I had just followed the plans!
18. The intention is to fit a coaming at the aft end of this deck.
19. Hopefully it will be useful for stowing some light object like surplus clothing or lunch.
20. A reinforcing ply plate is necessary for the inside of the transom. It will also lock in the extra knee I have added here.
21. A couple of steel rules are being used to hold a temporary dam in place so that I can pour some epoxy here. This will be used to take a stainless steel tube athwartships to accept a towing pin.

22. The building jig has had some cross braces added to take the inverted hull.

23. Over she goes - ready for the keel and chine fibre-glassing.
24. The planks are filleted as per John's instructions. Gives a nice "clinker" look.

OzSite Design  Industrial & Rural Website Specialists