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1.These are the so-called "flap sanders" both for an angle grinder and drill (mentioned on page 7).
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2. These are the parts for the quarter knee - rather than just using a ply doubler, I used a spacer piece of hoop pine which extends undere the inwhale for extra strength.
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3/4. Rebating the top layer of ply is best done with a series of saw cuts to the marked depth (4mm). Then chisel out the intermediate sections. |
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5.The fancy curved end is useful work for a cutter held in the Dremel. |
6. An armfull of clamps epoxied the quarter knees in place. |
7. For some strange reason I have decided to add a small foredeck to my Joansa. Should be good for trips out into the Tasman ocean (!). This was my method for establishing curves and heights.
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8. The apex of the curved deck beam forming the rear of the foredeck was established by sighting from the stem to the transom. I then guessed a "fair curve". |
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9. As the ply deck needs to bend in a straight line ie. a conical shape in this case, I pivoted a batten at the bow and moved it through even distances (chalked on the aft deck beam) |
10. At each chalked positon, I measured the offset from the bottom of a batten set at the position of the intermediated deck beam ...
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11. These offsets were then transferred to a ply pattern which was used to make the intermediate deck beam.
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12. The two deck beams in position. |
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13. I doubled the tickness of the deckbeams to a final thickness of 12mm. |
14. because I am an idiot and didn't leave enough 4mm ply to cover the foredeck, I had to come up with another scheme ...
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15... using a bit of left over oar laminate to make a central rib. This is rebated each side to take two half decks. |
16. This central rib needs housing into the deck beams and the stem. |
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17. How much simpler it would have been if I had just followed the plans! |
18. The intention is to fit a coaming at the aft end of this deck. |
19. Hopefully it will be useful for stowing some light object like surplus clothing or lunch. |
20. A reinforcing ply plate is necessary for the inside of the transom. It will also lock in the extra knee I have added here. |
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21. A couple of steel rules are being used to hold a temporary dam in place so that I can pour some epoxy here. This will be used to take a stainless steel tube athwartships to accept a towing pin. |
22. The building jig has had some cross braces added to take the inverted hull.
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23. Over she goes - ready for the keel and chine fibre-glassing. |
24. The planks are filleted as per John's instructions. Gives a nice "clinker" look.
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